Heath Hand Warmers - Free Crochet Pattern

 

I designed the crocheted Heath Hand Warmers to feature in a YouTube tutorial aimed at beginner crocheters. You can watch the video here HERE and I have inserted links throughout this pattern to help you on your way if you are relatively new to crochet. If you are a seasoned crocheter though, you can whip up a pair of these mitts in an afternoon!

The pattern is named for our local heathland where we spend many happy hours walking as a family.  I hope you enjoy making these, happy hand warmer making!

You can buy a lovely ad-free PDF version of this pattern here!

Pattern is written in US terminology

Yarn:

Any DK yarn. The samples I made used around 59g per pair (using DK yarn with 225m per 100g).

The speckled sample you see above is Craft House Magic yarn in the colour "Land of Make Believe".

Tools:

- 3mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

- Crochet stitch markers (lobster clasp or bulb pins).

- Darning needle for weaving in ends.

- Scissors

Gauge:

18sts and 10 rows = 4”/10cm in granny stitch

(These are not designed as fitted mitts so a small variation in gauge shouldn’t cause too many problems, but remember if you don’t have gauge you could end up with mitts smaller or bigger than intended, and the amount of yarn you need to complete your mitts will change.)

Sizes:

This pattern is in a size that will fit most hands with ease.

In the paid-for PDF (available here) I have included an option for a slightly smaller size if you prefer your mitts snug, or you have teeny hands, or you’re making the Heath Hand Warmers for a smallish person :)

 

The finished measurements are roughly:

 

Pattern

 

Bottom Cuff

Chain 36 (leave a longish tail at beginning for sewing in later)

 

Rnd 1 (link):      

You have two options – the usual way, which is to hdc in 4th chain from hook and in every chain across (34hdcs incl. turning chain).

OR! You can use my Upside Down method: Locate the 4th chain from the hook and flip to show back bump on underside of chain – work an hdc in this bump and in every bump across. (34hdcs incl. turning chain)

Video Link! I show you how to sew the little gap created after you join to work in the round in rnd 2.

 

Rnd 2 (link):         

Sl st to top of turning ch3 to join to work in the round (careful not to twist!). Ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), fphdc around stitch directly below (the turning chain) Bphdc around next hdc. Continue around alternating fphdc and bphdc, finishing on a bphdc. Join with sl st in top of first fphdc. (34sts - 17 fphdcs and 17 bphdcs)

Tip! Place markers in the first fphdc and last bpdc of the cuff rounds to help you find your way if you are new to this stitch.

Rnd 3 (link): 

Ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), fphdc around next fphdc, bphdc around next bphdc. Continue around alternating fphdc and bphdc, finishing on a bphdc. Join with sl st in top of first fphdc. (34sts - 17 fphdcs and 17 bphdcs)

Rnd 4 (link): 

Repeat Round 3. (34sts - 17 fphdcs and 17 bphdcs)

Main Mitt Bottom

Tip! We will now be turning at the end of each round – pay attention to what side the round is on (WS or RS) to stay on track! 

Rnd 5 (RS) (link): 

Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in same stitch. *Sk2, 3dc in next stitch. Repeat from * until 3 st remain, sk1, 3dc in next st (which will be a fphdc), sk1, sl st in top of starting ch3, turn. (36 dcs/12 x 3dc clusters)

Rnd 6 (WS) (link): 

Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in gap between clusters below, *sk 3dc, 3dc in the gap between clusters. Repeat from * until 1 3dc cluster remains and you’ve worked into all the gaps. Sk remaining 3dc cluster and join with sl st to starting ch3, turn.

 

Rnd 7 (RS) (link):     Repeat rnd 6.

 

Rnd 8 (WS) (link):    Repeat rnd 6.

 

Rnd 9 (RS) (link):     Repeat rnd 6.

Create Thumb Hole

 

Rnd 10 (WS) (link):  

Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in gap between clusters below, *sk 3dc cluster, 3dc in next gap. Repeat from * until 3dc remain. Do not join. Turn.

 

(You’re just over halfway done!)

 

Rnd 11 (RS) (link):   

Ch3 (counts as dc), sk the first 3dc cluster, 3dc in the next gap between clusters and in each gap around until one 3dc cluster remains, sk2, dc in last st, turn. (35dcs)

Rnd 12 (WS) (link):

Ch3 (counts as dc), 1dc in same stitch, *sk 3dc cluster, 3dc in gap. Repeat from * until 4dcs remain (the 3dc cluster and the turning ch), sk 3dc, 2dc in gap between 3dc cluster and last st, turn. (34dcs)

Rnd 13 (RS) (link):

At the end of this round we join to close the thumb hole.

Ch3 (counts as dc), sk first 2dc cluster, 3dc in gap *sk3, 3dc in next gap. Repeat from * until 1 2dc cluster remains, sk 1, 1dc in last st, sl st in top of ch3 to join. Turn. (35dcs)

 

Main Mitt Top

Rnd 14 (WS) (link):

Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in the gap below (the thumb hole). Sk4, 3dc in next gap, *sk3, 3dc in next gap, repeat from * until 4dcs remain (1 x 3dc cluster and 1 x ch3), sl to top of starting ch3 to join, turn. (33sts/11 x 3dc clusters)

Rnd 15 (RS) (link):

Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in gap below. *Sk3, 3dc in next gap. Repeat from * until 3st remain, sk last 3st, sl to top of starting ch3 to join. DO NOT turn.

From now on we will only be working on the right side, no more turning!

 

Top Cuff

Rnd 16 (RS) (link):

Ch3 (counts as dc), 1dc in same st as ch3, dc in every st around, sl st in starting ch3 to join. (34dcs)

Tip! Place markers in the first fpdc and last bpdc of the cuff rounds to help you find your way if you are new to this stitch.

Rnd 17 (RS) (link): 

Ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), fpdc around stitch below (the starting ch3 from rnd 16), bpdc around next stitch * fpdc around next st, bpdc around next stitch, repeat from * until end of round (ending on a bpdc). Sl st to top of starting fpdc to join (34sts - 17 fpdcs and 17 bpdcs)

Rnd 18 (RS) (link):

Ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), *fpdc around fpdc below, bpdc around next bpdc, repeat from * until end of round (ending on a bpdc). Sl st to top of starting fpdc to join.

Rnd 19 (RS) (link): 

Repeat round 18. Fasten off invisibly

Video Link! I show you how to fasten off invisibly at the end of the mitt.

Thumb Border - Both Sizes

With mitten right way up join yarn with sl st to centre st of the 3dc cluster at the bottom of thumb.

Video Link! I show you where to join your yarn and how to work the thumb border.

Rnd 1:

Ch1 (does not count as stitch), sc in same st (place marker in this sc), sc in next dc, 2sc around the body of every dc up the side of the thumb, sk the bottom of the 3dc cluster at the top of the thumb, turn the mitt around and work 2sc around the body of every dc down the other side of the thumb, sc in the remaining dc of the ch3 cluster at the bottom of the thumb. (19scs)

Rnd 2: 

Without joining, work 1sc in the marked stitch from beginning of rnd 1 (move marker to sc just made), then 1 sc in every sc around. Fasten off invisibly. (19scs)

 

Mitt Modifications!

 

Make your mitts as individual as you are! Here are some ideas and tips to Modify your Mitts!

* Play with colour! Use a contrasting colour for the cuffs and thumb, or stripe the main mitt pattern in two, three, four…as many colours as you like!

 

* Go long! Add rounds after the bottom cuff to make your mitts longer on your arms, just make sure you always add an even number of rows to maintain the RS/WS pattern – the first round of the thumb hole (round 10) should always be on the WRONG side!

* Add trim! If you used my “upside down start” then it is easy to join your yarn into any of the bottom cuff stitches and add a simple (or elaborate!) trim…

* Adjust! Want a longer or shorter cuff at the bottom or top? Just add or subtract rounds!

Happy Mitt Making!